Friday, March 28, 2014

HSF '14: Snow White's Apple Beret

Originally I intended to complete my Hobbit costume for this challenge, but didn't feel quite right about that, as the Hobbit isn't actually a Fairytale, the theme of this challenge.  I had been planning on crocheting a 1930's beret for the next challenge, but at some point had a flash of genius that I could make a Snow White's Apple beret. 
I don't think Snow White is my favorite fairytale, I'm not sure I have one, but I have felt connected to the story ever since sixth grade when I played the evil queen disguised as Esmeralda, the young gypsy woman who tries to sell Snow White a poisoned comb (she didn't make it into the Disney version).  I still have the impossible-to-resist decorative comb I made for the role (it's pink plastic wrapped with metallic silver ribbon). So I thought a Snow White themed entry was fitting.

The ChallengeFairytale: imagine your favorite fairytale set in a specific timeperiod, and make a historical garment inspired by the fairytale.

Fabric: Katia Merino Sport, almost 2 balls (100g) of red, and a very tiny amount of Merino Sport in green.

Pattern: Puff Stitch Crochet Beret and Crochet Leaves.  Found through Ravelry.  I did make changes to the Beret pattern to get it to fit; I used 6 Puff Stitches to start instead of 8, and eliminated Row 9.

Year: 1930's

Notions: If the yarn counts as the fabric, then nothing else was used.

How historically accurate is it? I'm really not sure.  The yarn is wool, but it has a very modern-seeming springiness to it, and the concept is all mine.  But if Eliza Schiaparelli can make a shoe hat, I can make an apple hat.

Hours to complete: I tend not to count crochet hours, as I mostly just do it while watching TV.  But I think it would have been about 10 if I didn't have to undo large swaths of it to make it fit my head.  My DK weight yarn was definitely not the pattern maker's DK weight yarn.

First worn: Not yet.

Total cost: 2 balls of yarn for about $10; the green was from stash.

I found several images of 1930's berets, including one that looks like it might use the Puff Stitch.


And this is mine!

My camera seems to have trouble getting reds right.  The color
is more like the shiniest, reddest, apple/lipstick red you've
ever seen.

Sunday, March 16, 2014

HSF '14: Green and Orange Hobbit Bodice

This challenge was incredibly interesting for me.  Usually, I work from a pattern.  If it's more difficult than a petticoat, I need to draft something.  And I don't drape.  Apart from not having a dress form to facilitate that, draping makes me extremely uncomfortable--it's so free form, and not at all math based.  I am definitely in the drafting camp.  So when I started this project, and decided that my bodice would be 16th century-based, I found a drafted starter shape online here (scroll down a bit).  But after studying that, I realized that A) it wasn't that great a pattern, and B) it was basically a sloper.  Oh, and if you don't know what a sloper is (which is also called a block) just Google Image search it.  And I already had a sloper.  Drafted over a year ago as a potential start to making my own patterns, I decided to cut it out (in fabric of course), sew it up, and see what happened.  And it wasn't too bad.  A Flemish bodice is fitted to the torso so that I really only needed to change the neckline, which was easy enough to do.  The other problems were that my sloper wasn't meant to be worn over anything, like my rather full Hobbit chemise, so it was a bit on the small side, encouraging some creativity in adding the outer layers.
I guess you'd say I started with a pattern (the sloper), but after that, I basically draped the other layers over that.  And for that I am incredibly proud.

A couple inspiration images (apart from the LOTR movies)

And here's my Hobbity interpretation.

The back is a bit (or a lot) more wrinkly than I'd like (which I didn't know until 10 minutes ago when I took the photos, raining a bit on my I'm-so-proud-of-this-thing parade).  There will be another skirt and an apron over the blue one, so I plan on making those, trying it all on again, adjusting the length and possibly adding a couple more bones, if I need to.  Which I think I will.  Boo pickle.

The ChallengeBodice -- a garment that covers the upper body.

Fabric: Green cotton corduroy that I pieced from a thrifted skirt.  Orange linen that I cut from a thrifted tea towel.  Lining of stash black cotton.  And interlining of stiff brown canvas-like cotton.

Pattern: Nope.  This is the first time I used my sloper, created from instructions in The Costume Technician's Handbook, to create my own pattern.  It was a learning experience, as in 'add tons of ease and length, you'll need it later.'  This was especially true as my fabric sloper became the bodice lining.

Year: In Middle Earth time? Let's say the Third Age.  But I intended the bodice to be reminiscent of Flemish dress in the 16th century.

Notions: 5mm eyelets, metal bones, white twill tape for lacing (which I'm going to need to either tea dye or find something else as it's currently very white).

How historically accurate is it? I'm really pleased with how it looks Hobbit-accuracy-wise.  Let's just stick with that.

Hours to complete: 19 hours.  I had thought I was 3/4 of the way done after 9 of those.  Then all the fiddly hand sewing began.

First worn: It will be worn to Elfia in April.

Total cost: The thrifted skirt and tea towel were $7.  Everything else was from stash.